Wine in Alpharetta

Of the thirty wines on the list, twenty-four are poured by the glass. Most sit between $13 and $17, with Moët & Chandon at $29 a glass for the nights that call for it.

Bottles run $45 to $70, and $110 for the Moët. Six wines are bottle only, mostly the ones worth sharing: a Napa Valley chardonnay, a Petit Chablis, a Provence rosé and an Alexander Valley cabernet among them.

A by-the-glass list that long is what makes sitting at the bar work. You can start sparkling, move to a white with the mezze and finish on a red without committing anyone to a bottle.

By the glass: a Bourgogne Tradition chardonnay from Burgundy and a Diatom chardonnay from Santa Barbara, Au Bon Climat pinot gris, two pinot grigios in Massican from Napa Valley and Borgo Conventi from Collio, a Berres riesling from the Mosel and Greywacke sauvignon blanc from Marlborough.

By the bottle only: Annia chardonnay from Napa Valley and a Christopher Patrice Petit Chablis.

All three rosés are from Provence. Bieler Père et Fils and Le Cengle are $14 a glass, and La Jolie Fleur comes by the bottle.

A few pairings that suit this menu, as suggestions rather than rules. Greywacke sauvignon blanc or the Petit Chablis with the branzino, salmon limone or grilled octopus.

Provence rosé with the mezze: hummus, whipped feta, baba ghanoush and the crispy cauliflower. It handles garlic, lemon and salt better than most whites.

Pinot noir with the chicken tawook or the salmon. The cabernets or the malbec with the lamb chops, the filet mignon kabob or the braised lamb shank. More on dinner.